Jean d’Eve is a Swiss watch company founded in 1888 by Mr. Charles Barbezat as Guye & Barbezat. In 1888 the firm changed the name to Le Phare - meaning 'The Lighthouse'. The watches were first produced under the “Le Phare” brand name and were immediately recognized for their quality and innovation and received the highest awards at the Universal Exhibitions in Paris (in 1889 and 1900), Liege (in 1905) and at several other international and national exhibitions. In 1905, Le Phare was so successful that the company, with now more than 200 employees, changed its name to “Manufacture d’Horlogerie Le Phare.” In 1970, Le Phare was the second largest Swiss producer of chronographs. The brand “Jean d’Eve” was launched in 1981 and gained immediate success with exclusive up-market models such as Sectora, Up-Side-Down and Blue Marlin. In 1984, the name was joined with Le Phare and became “Le Phare Jean d’Eve S.A.” The history of Hamilton Watch Company began in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Hamilton Produced its first watch in 1893, designed by H.J. Cain, one of the company's founding members. This watch company was named after the man who donated a large plot of land to the city community. Some time later a new watch factory appeared on this territory. In 1893, Hamilton produced the first collection of pocket watches “Broadway Limited”. Initially manufactured to provide the country's railroads with reliable timing devices, the Hamilton railroad pocket watch was adopted as the official watch of the American Expeditionary Forces worldwide. A wrist watch version of the railroad watch was issued to General Pershing and his dough-boys in WWI, accompanied Admiral Byrd on his expeditions to the North and South Poles, served the 'Picards' well on their first balloon ascent into the stratosphere, and were on the wrist of the first American to scale Mount Everest. The watches were successfully used by the staff of the railway transport department in the USA. These watches quickly advanced in popularity thanks to their accuracy and reliability. That is why, Hamilton watches were known as the "Watches of Railroad Accuracy." The accuracy of Hamilton watches made it possible to improve the work of the U.S. transport department. The watches had put an end to numerous accidents. 1928 The Yankees win the World Series. Hamilton introduces the Yankee Watch, establishing it as a leader in watch design. Hamilton helped America keep pace with the energy of a new lifestyle. New Hamilton designs, such as the Yankee and the Piping Rock, projected the independent spirit of the day. 1930 Hamilton continues to capture the soaring spirit of the 1930's. The world turns to the skies as commercial aviation takes off. Hamilton soon becomes the official timepiece of the most famous industry leaders --- TWA, Eastern, United and Northwest. 1940 WWII Hamilton stops production of watches for consumers and creates new timepieces exclusively for military use. Soon, Hamilton Company became the official watches supplier of the U.S. Army. Hamilton watches became the accessories that were used as the equipment of the famous First Infantry Division of General Pershing during the World War II. Close to one million Hamilton military watches are produced. During the World War II the watch company created a collection of military watches that had a round dial, Arabic numerals and a khaki-colored strap. So there was a beginning of famous Khaki watches production. Today, the 'Hack' has become very collectible among watch and military collectors. In 1957, Hamilton Company made a breakthrough by creating the fist electric watches, running on batteries. So, Hamilton Watch Company broke new ground in the history of matchmaking. In 1970, Hamilton's watchmakers introduced a new product development - the first electronic watch. 1957 Hamilton's leadership in engineering and innovation creates a significant breakthrough in timekeeping. Hamilton introduces the first electric watch in 1957. The Ventura becomes an instant success. See "Hamilton Electric" 1965 Inspired by the sleek lines of the Cadillac tailfins of the 50's, the Ventura becomes the watch of choice for the icons of American style. Elvis Presley chooses to wear the Ventura in his movie, 'Blue Hawaii.' 1972 The future is close at hand and Hamilton shocks the world with a completely new kind of watch. Manufactured at its headquarters in Pennsylvania, Hamilton introduces the world's first digital watch - the Pulsar. There are two areas of watch manufacturing in Hamilton Watch Company. They are American Classic, associated with Hollywood style, and Khaki - marine and aviation watches for the U.S. Army. In the past, Hamilton was rather a categorical watch brand. Hamilton wrist watches were sold mainly in the USA, France, Japan and Italy. However, at the turn of 90-s the watch company was bought by the Swatch Group, which decided to make Hamilton the international watch brand. To this end, the main office of Hamilton Watch Company and the company's workshop moved to Switzerland. Hamilton watch brand has found its own niche in the the Swatch Group structure. These watches combine the wonderful spirit of American dream and unsurpassed accuracy of Swiss watch movements. Today, Hamilton s primary collections include the American Classics collection and the Khaki collection, updated versions of the legendary military timepieces of yesteryear. When I saw this Cornavin Dolphin or Sword fish watch I was impressed by it's tropical teal color which is so deep and beautiful. There seems to be precious little published about this brand. What I have discovered in the course of my research is that Cornavin watches were at one time produced in Geneva Switzerland, but perhaps in the late 1970s or 1980s production was shifted to Russia (I'm not sure if there's a consensus on whether this is true or not). This one is signed “Swiss Movement”. Another example of a beautiful vintage early 1970’s watch. There is a Cornavin Watch Company currently but I am not sure if it is the same company related to these old vintage watches.. Their “About” page says: “Shaped by its historical company origins, the rich in tradition watch brand “Cornavin” was founded in Geneva. “Cornavin” was one of the first Swiss watch brands to introduce the big date and became popular in the 50s and 60s by developing fine mechanical watches.” Oris is one of the leading Swiss wristwatch brands. Oris history is more than 100 years old. In 1904, two men born in Le Locle, the watchmaking capital situated in the Swiss Jurassic region, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian bought the watch company Lohner & Co and with 24 workmen founded a watchmaking factory in Hölstein, a small village in the north-western part of Switzerland. Oris is the name of a valley and a brook close to Hölstein. From 1925, the watch manufacture produced rather inexpensive, however, high-quality wristwatches. Simple fasteners fixed to bracelets of pocket watches making them full-fledged wristwatches. As a result of the marketing campaign, Oris watches were sold in England, in English colonies and in South Africa. In 1937, in Bienne, Switzerland, the Oris dial factory opened. A year later, the Oris brand made its own escapements one of which was the caliber 292W 7 Jewel found in the 'Lunox' line. From 1949, all water-resistant wristwatches were marked with the special signet “Waterproof”, and water resistance became to be one of the Oris advantages. In 1952, the automatic movement 601 with power-reserve was made, which is now in demand. In 1966, the factory produced the automatic movement caliber 645 with the escapement. In 1968, “Observatoire Astronomique et Chronometrique” awarded Oris full chronometer certification of the highest distinction for the accuracy of calibre 652. In 1970, the holding ASUAG (now the Swatch Group) bought up the Oris shares. In the Holding Oris watches set place of inexpensive products – not a very successful strategy. In 1982, the controlling block of shares was bought back by the company's management, Rolf Portmann as chairman and Ulrich W. Herzog as CEO. The Oris watch brand prestige was reviving little by little. New unique models were being developed. The original design of Oris wristwatches attracts not only professional divers but also true connoisseurs of watch art. Oris watch brand also produces aviation watches and actively supports world famous aviation companies and individual aviators, to whom new watches Oris Big Crown are devoted. In 2008-2009, Oris sponsored the Âlue Eagles Helicopter Display Team, a team of helicopter aviators. As a result, a model Oris BC4 has appeared. Oris makes only mechanical watches. A distinguishing feature of the watch brand is the original distinctive design and the red rotor, the symbol of Oris mechanicals and the registered trade mark. While a watch case producing, different materials, such as gold, steel and titanium, are used. A case is tested on durability and water-resistance. A dial is guilloched with the silver coating giving watches dull luster. Straps are made from leather (bull calf, crocodile, ostrich, shark) or rubber. Bracelets are made from steel or titanium. The model ProDiver Chronograph is completed with a rubber strap, a titanium bracelet and tools for their replacement. Oris gives preference to four directions, every of which has its own specificity: motor racing, aviation, diving and culture. Oris wristwatches are very popular. Many Hollywood stars choose these watches for acting in films and for everyday life. I stumbled across this interesting vintage 1960’s watch called ‘Dynasty’ which turned out to be an in house brand for Sears, Roebuck & Company with a Japanese Hamazawa 5026 movement. My initial investigations found very little, with only references to Seiko and eventually Orient. Now having found a little more it makes sense when you know the close connections of Seiko and Orient. Research suggest an unofficial relationship between Hamazawa and Seiko. Hamazawa Ltd was founded in 1954. In the 1970s, they took out a few joint patents with Epson on non watch related items. They seem to have sold a lot of movements to various Japanese and foreign watch companies. In 1983 they merged with two other companies, one of which was a major watch case supplier for Seiko-Epson. In 1986, this company was eventually taken over by Seiko. In the 1960’s Hamazawa released the 5000 family of movements – automatic and manual wind. They were 17 jewel movements and have a 21,600 beat. The self-winding mechanism partially uses the Seiko Magic Level System. Their movements were: 5020: manual wind, center seconds 5022: manual winding, central second, date 5023: manual wind, center seconds, date, day 5025: automatic, central second, date 5026: automatic, central second, date, day The 5026 is a 17 jewel automatic that is a rebadged Orient cal. 16720. As we mentioned above, Hamazawa was a company that was eventually taken over by Seiko in the 1980s. Back when this watch was made, they were probably somewhat independent; however the winding mechanism on the 50xx movements would have required a license agreement with Seiko who held the patent at that time. The rest of the design however has absolutely nothing in common with Seiko design practices. This movement first came out in the late 1960s, but what Hamazawa were doing from their inception in 1954 until then, it is unknown. The 7 jewel version movements they manufactured were used in Seiko's cheap labels ‘School Time’ and ’Tomony’. The 17 jewel ones were used by Orient and turned up in other Japanese brands like ‘Urika’ or other retailers such as ‘Sears Roebuck’ watches. It is unlikely that there is a 'Seiko' branded watch with this type of movement however they may exist. The movements were sold widely overseas and may be found in US brands including Sears and Benrus, and the British brand Astral. Waltham is a legendary American - Swiss precision watch making brand, which has been setting modern standards for the production of clocks and watches, and has over one thousand patents in the sector. The American Waltham Watch Company, founded in 1850 in Massachusetts, created Waltham International SA in Switzerland in 1954 and since 1957, all Waltham high-end watches have been manufactured on the premises in Neuchâtel/Switzerland, and are 100% Swiss Made. History: In 1850, Aaron Dennisson, Edvard Howard and David Davis founded Waltham Watch Company in Roxbury (USA). In 1854 The Company settled in the town of Waltham in the State of Massachusetts, and became the world's first industrial watchmaking "manufacture". Early watches were produced around 1850. They were actually marked "Howard, Davis & Dennison - Boston". The new company struggled early on as it coped with higher then anticipated manufacturing costs. They also had problems making the interchangeable parts system actually work. Although in theory the parts should have been identical once produced, they found that each part was a little different from the next. The machines weren't exact. It took the company months to produce watches that were actually no better than those already on the market. Howard would eventually perfect and patent his precision watch making machines and the company was almost ready for production. In 1851, with the factories complete, the American Horology Company was named. By 1852 the first watches were completed. The first 17 watches were marked "The Warren Mfg Co". Watches 18 through 100 were named "Warren Boston". The next 800 were named "Samuel Curtis". These early watches are extremely rare and very valuable. The name was changed to "Boston Watch Company" in 1853. In 1854 a factory was built in Waltham Mass. The watches that were manufactured here (1001-5000) were named "Dennison, Howard, & Davis" as earlier stated, as well as "P.S.Bartlett", and "C.T. Parker". Boston Watch Company failed in 1857. The company was sold at auction to Appleton Tracy & Co. in May 1857. In January 1859 the Waltham Improvement Comany and Appleton, Tracy & Company merged to the "American Waltham Watch Company". By 1860 the country was in Civil War, and the company was in trouble again. Production ground to a halt. With a war going on, finding a market for their watches was becoming a serious problem. The company decided to downsize to the lowest possible level to keep the factory open andit worked! In 1870 Waltham created the "Crescent Street" high-precision Railway watch. In 1912 Waltham launched its first feminine wristwatch, the "Lady Waltham". In 1954, over a century after its foundation, Waltham relocated to Switzerland, the leading watch manufacturing country. In 1966 Waltham successfully launched the world's first and only atmosphere proof self-winding mechanical watch in Japan, enabling durable chronometer precision. "Waltham Watch Company" went out of business in the late 1950''s to early 1960's. In 1957 they planned to merge with the "Waltham Precision Instrument Company" and the merge was completed March 1960. In the mid 60's the remaining assets were purchased by the Dextra Corporation which failed in 1983. In 1987 Waltham began the manufacturing of watches with solid gold. Today, 'Waltham International SA' manufactures and distributes Waltham Swiss Made watches in the luxury Japanese watch market. Since 2011 the majority of the company has been taken over by the American entrepreneur Antonio DiBenedetto who is now the current President and CEO. In over 100 years of existence the factory produced 40 million jeweled watches, plus clocks, speedometers, compasses, time fuses for bombs and other precision instruments. When it comes to Japanese horology we are probably all familiar with Seiko, Citizen, Orient together with their subsidiary brands. The same can be said for Casio. The one we rarely hear anything about is the last of the major Japanese watch companies, RICOH. Yes, that RICOH (the photo copier maker). A successful and important Japanese company which has a long history of manufacturing watches, Ricoh's watch history has somehow been almost lost for posterity, with no firm attempt to remedy this deficit. And indeed, the number of pre-owned and vintage Ricoh watches for sale on the internet indicates that the company was an important player in the watch market. Ricoh started on February 6, 1936 as Riken Corporation (or per the Ricoh Fact Book, "Riken Kankoshi Co., Ltd.") based on the work of Dr. Ookawati Masatoshi [which apparantly deals with photographic paper or "sensitized paper"]. March 1938, the company name was changed to Riken Optical Industry (or "Riken Optical Co., Ltd.") and started production of optical devices and equipment. On Apr. 1, 1963 the name changed (again) to Ricoh Co., Ltd. In 1962, Hamilton entered into a joint venture (60% owned by Hamilton) with the Japanese matchmaking firm Ricoh to produce electric watches meant primarily for the Japanese market. The electronic components were produced at Hamilton's Lancaster factory while production of the mechanical works and final assembly was undertaken in Japan. Although production levels of Hamilton-Ricoh watches was high (over 1000 per month), demand was low and consequently, the Hamilton-Ricoh partnership was unable to compete with the substantial market presence of Seiko. The partnership was dissolved in 1965, with the remaining Hamilton-Ricoh electronic movements (marked 'Ricoh 555E') re-cased as 'Vantage' and sold in the US." It is widely said, in collector circles, that Seiko is traditionally considered #1in Japanese watch production (at least for the 1955-to-Present time period), Citizen 2nd, and Orient 3rd [which, by default, leaves "Ricoh" 4th]. Is this indeed true? In a 1970’s research paper, "The Watch Industries in Switzerland, Japan, and the United States" Japanese watch production figures in 1970 are shown as follows: Company / Est. Share of Japanese Production K. Hattori (Seiko) = 60% Citizen = 28% Orient = 9% Ricoh = 3% Nowadays, Ricoh is most closely associated with cameras and other imaging equipment, as well as office machinery. |
Old Time WatchesI enjoy collecting mechanical (manual wind and automatic) and early electric and quartz timepieces. I take great pleasure in researching and writing about the companies and people that created these beautiful watches. PF
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